Around nineteen years ago Jan and John led their first walk for the group, a short walk on an industrial archaeology route known as the Machen Forge Trail and as part of the celebration of the group’s twentieth year they decided to re-visit the area.
Machen lies just east of Caerphilly underneath the shadow of Mynydd Machen with the River Rhymney flowing some thirty miles from its source on the southern edge of the Brecon Beacons to pass through the village on its way to Cardiff and ultimately into the Severn Estuary. The river ran black during mining operations but since the pits closed is in a healthier condition now supporting grayling and brown trout.
On a lovely dry and clear morning, leaving the village to cross the Rhymney River their first stop came at Green Row, learning it was housing built as a dormitory for the very tough ‘sinkers’ who travelled the country digging the pits prior to mining taking place. The building had one single passage connecting all the rooms as well as a resident housekeeper who no doubt earned her money trying to keep the wayward sinkers in line and it was nicknamed ‘the barracks’!
A short tramp along a track to the quiet Forge Wood led to the remains of Machen Forge, one of the older iron forges in south Wales dating to the 16th century and which expanded into tinplate manufacture in 1826, finally closing in 1886.
The site is peaceful now but when in operation the air thundered with forge hammers whilst chimneys belched out black smoke in the creation of good quality iron, much of which was sent to Tintern for wire making. The nicknamed pickle ponds were part of the forge and were most likely used to clean the sheets of iron ready for the tin-plating process, whilst the only standing remains of the forge are the stables which housed the pack horses that carried iron and coal.
Moving on towards the remnants of an old viaduct and tramway which transported coal from the Pentwyn Pit to the railway and climbing up steps onto the embankment the group walked below Forge Wood on to Waterloo village to enjoy a brief coffee break.
A short climb led them towards the brow of a hill and a viewpoint, with fine views of the surrounding countryside towards Machen and Bedwas as well as the pyramidal shapes of old coal tips in the surrounding area. Reaching the site of the disused Pentwyn mine which opened around 1875 and closed in 1923 it was interesting to note it was also known as Machen Colliery.
The trail then led the group into forestry land in the lower part of Coed Cefn-pwll-du which until 1760 produced charcoal as a fuel to fire the furnaces.
Emerging from the woods and reaching Long Row cottages it was interesting to learn they were built in 1871 and that they remain a fine example of Victorian workers housing which contained bread ovens and a bailey to connect the houses at the back.
Then a short descent brought the group back to their start point in Machen after a lovely stroll through peaceful countryside which belies its industrial history.
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