On a beautiful bright sunny winter morning a group of fifteen walkers plus Ramekin, a perky rescue dog joined Robin and spaniel Pepper for a circular walk in the easternmost end of the Brecon Beacons National Park that would see them climbing a mountain and being rewarded with a pub lunch.
Ysgyryd Fawr, more commonly known by the anglicised version of Skirrid or Skirrid Fawr has a distinctive jagged western side which resulted from Ice Age glacial action and starting from the roadway at its base, muddy pathways led them gradually winding uphill through woodland to the top of the ridge.
Making their way along the spine of the mountain to the trig point which is situated at 486 metres, their climb was rewarded with glorious views towards the Black Mountains sporting an overcoat of snow turning them into the White Mountains!
Pausing for morning coffee whilst drinking in the views westwards towards Abergavenny, Blorenge and Sugar Loaf Mountain and across the fields of Herefordshire in the east, the leader explained the significance of the two original doorway stones that lie on the ground near a hollow. They are all that remain of the church dedicated to St Michael, which allegedly was the secret meeting place for Catholic Mass during the 17th century, when Catholics were persecuted for practising their faith and he reminded them that Skirrid was also once the site of an Iron Age hill fort.
Descending down a grassy slope to reach a stile on the edge of National Trust property, a succession of stiles and fields led them onwards through a farm and across a quaint ten-inch footbridge over a stream, which luckily was equipped with handrails.
After a conversation with a friendly farmer another bridge led them on past an old millstone for the short climb to the small rural village of Llangattock Lingoed, which is a fine example of a pre-Norman settlement.
Making their way to the 13th century Hunter’s Moon public house which is now family owned and has delightful views over the valley back towards Skirrid, a fine lunch was very much appreciated after what appeared to be a long wait.
Next to the pub is the village church dedicated to St Cadoc from whom the parish derives its name and which stands on the site of the original timber, wattle and thatch small cell that would have been used by the resident monk, whilst baptisms would be carried out in the nearby stream. By 1100 the Normans had conquered this part of Wales and the village was under March Lordship and rents from the vicarage and the manor were given to the Priory at Abergavenny which was founded in 1090.
The great rood screen within the church built in 1254, separated the clergy from the congregation and until Protestantism replaced Catholicism the ordinary public did not set foot beyond the screen and Holy Communion was received in strict social order with the gentry coming first. After the Reformation the rood screen and loft were removed and over the next 100-years wall paintings were covered up and much of the beautiful stained glass was destroyed. Up until 1820 when 16-pews were installed following a parish meeting at the Hunter’s Moon, there had been no seating at all, so people had to kneel or stand.
By 1874 the church was very much in need of major repair work. Unfortunately the Rector died, but the new priest set vigorously about raising funds from wealthy benefactors and the church re-opened in April 1878. All the old pews were removed and 21-new pews made from red deal were installed and were intended for anyone’s use. However in practice people still reverted to their usual places as per their social standing and the whole cost of the work amounted to £162-13s-3d.Several rich benefactors including Mr Crawshay Bailey, the Merthyr Tydfil Ironmaster, gave generous amounts of money to complete this modern church and the old harmonium was sold and was replaced by a new pipe organ, whilst new lights and carpets were also fitted with the church re-opening in 1878.
Further renovations began in 2003, with a life size wall painting of St George on a horse, standing on a slain dragon being uncovered a year later, which no doubt had been covered over with whitewash following the Reformation ordered by King Henry VIII.
Refreshed their homeward journey was along a different route than originally planned by the leader as he found many of the paths were blocked, gates chained up, stiles overgrown and barbed wire preventing entry.
So sticking firstly to part of Offa’s Dyke Path which was originally built by Offa, King of Mercia through fields with proud mums showing off their newly born lambs, which was very fitting as it was the day before Mothering Sunday and then joining part of the Beacon’s Way back towards the flank of Skirrid, slippery muddy steps that had led them originally uphill at the start now led them rather precariously back to the finish line.
