The weather remained dry with variable amounts of warm sunshine and cloud when Terry and Val played host to a group of thirteen ramblers who joined them at Parc Penallta which was created during the latter part of the 1990’s on derelict mining land that has been transformed into a community park.
After an introductory talk on the history of the park where originally Penallta Colliery stood, the group set off passing their first sculpture of the day which lies adjacent to the car park. Entitled ‘Breaking the Mould’ it was created by Andrew McKeown and depicts a giant seed having been released from an industrial mould. Made from stone and cast iron the sculpture comprises six separate pieces which allows the viewer the chance to reassemble them as a jigsaw within their mind (no doubt they are too heavy to pick up!)
Following various tracks within the park and descending through willow trees that once formed a willow arch over the pathway but appear to have been cut, the group moved on to cross the boardwalk that passes beside a lake surrounded by thick green reed beds.
Following the route of the old railway line the group crossed over it by bridge from where they saw ponies and unusually a group of donkeys at the lower end of a field. Arriving at the very busy A472 near the Rowan Tree pub they very carefully crossed the road to a stile hidden in a hedge before climbing gradually through fields to a farm track.
In the adjoining field were some cows and delightful calves and ahead of them from the track the group enjoyed views over Nelson with green fields and woodland stretching into the Cynon Valley.
Descending gradually to enter part of Nelson they passed a garden of a house where two beautiful Chow Chow’s were happy to be photographed before the group turned off up a lane leading past Tydu Farm with its fantastic surrounding dry stone walls.
Joining part of the Rhymney Valley Ridgeway Walk going uphill across a recently ploughed and seeded field they enjoyed amazing views over the valley to Abercynon nestling below wooded hillsides and the rounded tump of Pen y Foel.
A kissing gate led on to a narrow path at the end of which was a road where they paused to admire a pretty old stone cottage that was being refurbished before continuing and stopping for morning coffee in the corner of a field by some big stones under some ancient oaks.
A short piece of road-walking led to St Mabon’s Church which was founded in the 6th century by Mabon and rebuilt in 1863 on the site of an 11th century wooden church. Unfortunately the church was firmly locked, but the group paused to view the large churchyard across the road where the Albion Colliery Disaster Memorial stone recalls the fact that eleven unidentified bodies, each with a headstone, are buried there. There are also individual graves which recall other disasters relating to the mining industry such as the Senghenydd Colliery disaster in 1913 and the tragic Aberfan in 1966.
Following the lane past the Llanfabon Inn that dates back to the 15th century the group tramped downhill before crossing a cattle grid to begin the climb up onto Eglwysilan Common where rowan trees bending under the weight of their bright red berries adjoined the path and a pair of buzzards were circling and calling to each other overhead.
From the warmth of the valley as they progressed uphill a cool wind was blowing and an early lunch was enjoyed utilising a lovely old dry stone wall a great feature of this area, for shelter. Continuing uphill from where there were glorious views down towards Pontypridd, Glyntaff and Rhydfelin they reached the ridgeway passing over Mynydd Eglwysilan with the wind in their faces whilst above the sky turned grey but no rain fell.
The surrounding views of the west Glamorgan valleys, towards the central Beacons, the south Wales coastline and out across the Bristol Channel were stunning as the group carried on along rough tracks where unfortunately much fly-tipping had taken place and the beautiful landscape was scarred with piles of rubbish.
The huge disused spoil tips at Llanbradach stood out on the skyline as the sun put in an appearance once more and with views down the valley to Ystrad Mynach, Cefn Hengoed and Blackwood the group followed a minor road downhill enjoying ripe blackberries from the hedgerows. As they began following a path through the garden of some beautiful houses, geese ran down the grassy bank honking and showing their displeasure at the walkers that had disturbed their peace, only stopping when they realised the group meant no harm and were not a threat – phew!
Re-crossing the Caerphilly Road and entering a narrow green lane they made their way back to Parc Penallta following wide man-made paths gradually uphill to the Observatory viewpoint. From there great views around the park and children’s drawings that have been cut out of the ironwork signify this is truly a community area.
**Note the spelling mistake on the information plaque set into the ground in the centre of the high observatory for a mobile phone app!
Sunk in 1905, Penallta Colliery was served by the Rhymney railway and was nationalised in 1947 and having survived the Miner’s Strike in 1984/5 was worked until 1991. Work began on transforming the area into a community park in 1996 and the headgear of the mining shaft is still in place, now surrounded by a modern housing development.
The group made their way downhill glad to get out of the breeze to walk across the backbone of Sultan, a figurative earth sculpture of a pit pony lying on its side measuring 200- metres in length and 15-metres in height. Created by landscape sculptor Mick Petts it was named by the locals after a very much loved pony that worked in the pit and is built out of coal shale from the mine with local anthracite coal forming the eye. Originally Sultan’s ear was fashioned out of willow but it didn’t take, so it was replaced with metal from where you can drink in the surrounding views before the short stroll back to the car park.
It is worthwhile remembering that in the late 19th century probably as many as 200,000-horses and ponies worked in mine tunnels in Britain. They also died in their hundreds from pit accidents, explosions and mistreatment. They lived permanently in the pit and were only brought to the surface when they had died or if they were being transported off to be used to make pet food. After living in almost permanent darkness they lost their sight and many of those who worked the Welsh pits only understood commands in the Welsh language.
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